Proenza Schouler’s Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough opted for a more reminiscent Pre-Fall 2015 collection, focusing this season on revisiting a few favorite looks from the past, while introducing new, more experimental ideas. Pre-collections, after all, supply the perfect opportunity for designers to display more creative freedom than with their main season counterparts.
While translating classic American appeal into an overall menswear-inspired lineup, this season emerged full of textured knitwear, wearable argyle options and fluid silhouettes. And although they remained equally chic and refined with an abundance of grays and browns, Proenza Schouler continued to showcase textural innovations – a definite point of continual intrigue when it comes to following this New York-based label.
Alexander Wang took Spring 2015 as his opportunity to break free from the reverent tones of the iconic Cristóbal Balenciaga and previous creative director Nicolas Ghesquière, which he had attentively pursued throughout the collections since his onboarding. This season, however, welcomed in a very Wang-inspired lineup, with a new venue and distinct direction.
Now at Palais de Tokyo in Paris, Wang seemed to infiltrate the vibe with his quintessential athletic and urban influences, from the sleek glass-and-metal runway to the street-ready notes of sportswear. And while I’m a huge fan of Wang’s work, I couldn’t separate myself from the feeling I was looking at his eponymous label. After all, this was Balenciaga… Right?
After last season’s blatant Stars Wars motif, Rodarte’s designers Laura and Kate Mulleavy rebounded with a Spring 2015 collection filled with stunning imagery and an enchanting utilitarian workmanship.
Though underlying themes explored a fantastical underwater life, the true majesty of the season was found in the details; from a crystallized runway to the crystal and sequin embellishments, the true-to-form sister designers are back and have spared no expense in hard work or creativity.
Read more of my review at Statement.qa.